1. Preparing the Surface
Before polishing begins, the timber must be perfectly smooth and clean.
Steps:
- Cleaning & dust removal: Any old finish, dirt, wax, or oils must be removed.
- Sanding: The surface is sanded through several grits to remove scratches and open the grain.
- Pore filling: Woods like mahogany or walnut have natural pores. These are filled using fine pumice powder and shellac to create a glass-like, even base.
Good preparation is essential — even the best polishing technique will not hide surface imperfections.
2. Mixing the Shellac
Shellac flakes are dissolved in methylated spirits to create the polishing solution.
Why shellac?
- Natural and eco-friendly
- Dries quickly
- Builds beautiful depth
- Repairs easily without stripping the entire surface
The strength (called cut) is adjusted based on the type of wood and desired finish.
3. Making the "Rubber" (Polishing Pad)
A French polishing pad — known as a rubber or fad — is made from cotton wadding wrapped in a soft cloth.
Its purpose:
- Holds the shellac
- Releases it in controlled, even amounts
- Allows circular or figure-eight motion without streaks
This simple tool is the heart of the entire process.
4. Applying Thin Layers of Shellac
The polishing begins by moving the rubber across the surface in continuous patterns.
Typical motions:
- Figure eight
- Straight passes
- Circular wiping
Thin layers are built up slowly, often requiring 20–30 coats over multiple sessions.
The aim is not to apply shellac thickly but to gradually build clarity and depth.
5. Adding Oil to Maintain Smooth Motion
A few drops of oil — usually olive oil or mineral oil — are used on the pad to prevent it from sticking.
Why oil is needed:
- Reduces friction
- Helps the pad glide
- Prevents swirl marks or tearing
The oil remains on the surface until the final stage, where it is carefully removed.
6. "Spiriting Off"
Once enough layers are built, the surface is lightly "spirited off."
This involves:
- Using a clean pad
- With very diluted shellac
- No oil
This step removes any oily residue and refines the clarity of the finish, leaving a flawless sheen.
7. Curing and Buffing
The shellac needs time to harden fully.
After curing:
- The surface may be gently buffed
- A protective wax can be applied
- The final look becomes rich, reflective, and silky smooth
Final Result
The final French-polished surface is:
- Deep and glossy
- Smooth to the touch
- Rich in colour and clarity
- Highly reflective
- Perfect for antiques, pianos, and high-value timber furniture
It's one of the most beautiful finishes ever developed — and also one of the most labour-intensive, which is why it is trusted only to skilled craftsmen.